On an even deeper level, though, the phrase connotes a shared feeling of cheer and human warmth: a kind of bonhomie born from shared hunger and the anticipation of a sizzling, well-cooked skewer.   No wonder then that barbecue, or s haokao (烧烤), is ubiquitous throughout China. It is cheap, messy, hands-on, full-contact eating, and about as far from white-tablecloth dining as is possible to get. Here's the lowdown on Zibo barbecue and China's other major regional variations: Zibo became a tourism hotspot after videos of its barbecue went viral online (Credit: CFOTO/Future Publishing via Getty Images) Zibo-style barbecue ( 淄博烧烤 ) Zibo barbecue offers a veritable menagerie of skewered meats (skin-on pork belly is the style's sine qua non), delivered to the table with stacks of chewy, tortilla-like flour wrappers and piles of sweet Shandong spring onions.

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