Wellington had dawned bright and brilliant as I made my way to Queen's Wharf to catch an East by West ferry to Matiu/Somes Island. Diamonds of light sparked off the waves as we zipped over to the island in the gentle southerly breeze. This nuggety, forest-fringed island sits in the middle of Wellington Harbour like a time-honoured landmark, endowed with a rich history. Like a perky cub scout, I was eager to explore its story. Matiu is the Māori name of the island, and as the story goes, the great explorer Kupe bestowed this island with the name of his daughter.

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